Startup problems

[05lly2500hd]

Maybe in the wrong spot but here goes....

I just recently had a shortblock built and I finished it and installed it in truck.
cut pistons and Howard's rods, cam and crank pin fix.

Well it's turning over but won't fire up and start. I've checked everything time and time again to no avail. no fuel leaks that I can see.
Logging actual rail pressure with efilive only shows 180 psi while cranking....need 1500+ I'm told.
took glow plugs out and cranked to see if injector was stuck open, no fuel cam out of holes.
I've rechecked all fuel lines, electrical connections and so on. truck sat for over a year, so I drained tank and added a bottle of standyne and 15 gallons of fresh fuel.

I prime filter head, no go. I do such with bleeder screw closed and no go, yet the pump gets soft again, even if I don't try cranking it. I opened the valve on bottom of filter and pushed button on kennedy controller box and fuel squirted out.
I logged MAINRATE and MAINBPW and they read something like 68 average. Actual rail pressure read 180 psi average.
checked all the fuses too.
no sign of smoke or fuel smell in exhaust pipe.
I took the rubber return line off of the metal line at the rear of the driver's side head and fuel came out in a stream. All new washers and o-rings on injectors.
Truck just turns over and over and shakes like it's really trying to start up, but she just won't do it.

[05lly2500hd]

copied from Fingers post:The Kennedy pump will not self prime. You have to use the hand pump on the OEM filter bracket to get fuel to the Kennedy. If you crack the vent on the filter housing and press the prime button on the Kennedy, it should spit fuel in short order. If not, pump the plunger a good 1/2 dozen times. Then try again. If you have a vacuum leak between the Kennedy and the tank it will never prime.

If the Lift pump checks out, crack the return line from the pump then crank. If fuel comes out. the gear pump is getting fuel and pumping. Then crack an injector line. Again, look for Fuel. END OF QUOTE
So I'm thinking lift pump is fine...

I opened the injector line on one on passenger side, no fuel came out of line, after a minute or so fuel surfaced to the fuel rail.
took the feed line off at driver's side rail, same thing , VERY LITTLE fuel came out.
could WD-40 hurt the injectors? Guy that tore my engine apart had em soaking as I had lots of carbon build up on the #1 injector before.

[Fingers]

Use the bleed screw on TOP of the Filter mount, not the bottom, to bleed the filter. Pump the manual pump till fuel comes out of the top bleeder. Close the bleeder.

If the filter head is not keeping prime, you have a leak in the line from the filter head to the CP3. Check what I mentioned in the copied post and let us know the results.

[swatkins]

Also check the fuel filter housing.. Some have reported cracks in that fixture and that will let air in to the systems and make you lose prime....

[05lly2500hd]

Use the bleed screw on TOP of the Filter mount, not the bottom, to bleed the filter. Pump the manual pump till fuel comes out of the top bleeder. Close the bleeder.

If the filter head is not keeping prime, you have a leak in the line from the filter head to the CP3. Check what I mentioned in the copied post and let us know the results.
yea I've been using the screw on top.

The rubber line from filter to CP3 line? check it, correct?

[RickDLance]

We normally have to pump the primer up hard and try to start it at least 3 or 4 times after we have all the lines off.

[Rhall]

Did you use the stock injectors? Johnboy had that problem and it was a hung injector.

[RickDLance]

If it's a hung injector would he be able to pull the return line and see the bypass? I think he's already checked all the cylinders for flooding.

[05lly2500hd]

Did you use the stock injectors? Johnboy had that problem and it was a hung injector.


Yes I used stock injectors. I already took the glow plugs out.

[neversatisfied]

You said your actual rail psi is 180. What is your commanded psi?

[05lly2500hd]

Also check the fuel filter housing.. Some have reported cracks in that fixture and that will let air in to the systems and make you lose prime....
It seems fine.

[05lly2500hd]

You said your actual rail psi is 180. What is your commanded psi?
Will have to look, I think i logged it and it was really had like 5947 or something. Let me look through the logs and if not in there I'll log it.

[05lly2500hd]

FRPACT actual rail pressure average of 186psi
FRPDES desired 5947psi
FRPCOM regulator command percentage 31.9% average
FRPACOM commanded fuel rail pressure regulator 835mA average
INJ*PW pulse width average of 2.8 - 2.9 ms each injector

[Fingers]

You didn't happen to mess with the FPRV did you?

[05lly2500hd]

You didn't happen to mess with the FPRV did you?

I did before I while waiting on engine to be built. I had originally had it shimmed and decided to shim it a little more because it still would pop.
why do you ask?

[Fingers]

Leaking FPRV will not let pressure build in the rail. Pop the return line off the valve. There should be zero fuel coming out of the valve when you crank.

[05lly2500hd]

Leaking FPRV will not let pressure build in the rail. Pop the return line off the valve. There should be zero fuel coming out of the valve when you crank.
you hit the nail on the head, went to loosen the fprv and as soon as I touched it it fell out, tightened it, fired right up.
I let it idle for a bit and now it is smoking white, pretty thick too.
killed it and cranked again twice fired right up, I tried puttin it in gear but DIC said SHIFT RANGE INHIBITED, think I'm low on tranny fluid, got some tranny fluid and power steering fluid to fill her up. but the last time she was running she made a noise, kinda like fuel knock and died, that was 30 minutes ago and she won't crank now, but doing something different... It won't turn over near as long, now only 2-4 seconds and the starter is EXTREMELY hot. so I'm gonna let it cool off, finish grilling and try her in a little bit. I sure hope the smoke is normal, or not my injectors gone bad.....

got another one for you guys when I get this one cleared up.....
I could not install oil pressure sensor connector onto the sensor because I put it in a different oil galley by mistake, the one behind oil cooler, if I could tigethen or loosen it a bit I could get it to fit but I can't get anything on it to turn it. I have an aftermarket oil psi gauge in....is there anyway to at least temporarily get rid of that dinging saying oil pressure low via efilive or placing a resistor in line???(Ben's idea)that sensor is the least of my worries right now, the dinging is just driving me crazy....I know lets stick to the big problem first, just figured I'd throw it out there.
So a BIG SPECIAL THANKS to all that helped.. Especially Fingers, Ben and Rick Lance.

[05lly2500hd]

and yes the oil gauge is registering now....

[Rhall]

you hit the nail on the head, went to loosen the fprv and as soon as I touched it it fell out, tightened it, fired right up.
I let it idle for a bit and now it is smoking white, pretty thick too.
killed it and cranked again twice fired right up, I tried puttin it in gear but DIC said SHIFT RANGE INHIBITED, think I'm low on tranny fluid, got some tranny fluid and power steering fluid to fill her up. but the last time she was running she made a noise, kinda like fuel knock and died, that was 30 minutes ago and she won't crank now, but doing something different... It won't turn over near as long, now only 2-4 seconds and the starter is EXTREMELY hot. so I'm gonna let it cool off, finish grilling and try her in a little bit. I sure hope the smoke is normal, or not my injectors gone bad.....

got another one for you guys when I get this one cleared up.....
I could not install oil pressure sensor connector onto the sensor because I put it in a different oil galley by mistake, the one behind oil cooler, if I could tigethen or loosen it a bit I could get it to fit but I can't get anything on it to turn it. I have an aftermarket oil psi gauge in....is there anyway to at least temporarily get rid of that dinging saying oil pressure low via efilive or placing a resistor in line???(Ben's idea)that sensor is the least of my worries right now, the dinging is just driving me crazy....I know lets stick to the big problem first, just figured I'd throw it out there.
So a BIG SPECIAL THANKS to all that helped.. Especially Fingers, Ben and Rick Lance.


Did you cut down the pistons for lower compression? That will make it white smoke a bit.

[neversatisfied]

At 15:1 you can barely see a haze.

[Fingers]

Good deal!

[05lly2500hd]

Did you cut down the pistons for lower compression? That will make it white smoke a bit.

pistons were cut around 16.1

[05lly2500hd]

ok same deal. I let the truck run for 5 minutes or so twice. Started her up again and let her run about 10 minutes. "Battery not charging" came on DIC.
Smoke was bad enough I had to roll my windows up. White smoke. Truck will not crank again. had wifey try and I smelt exhaust, smelt like fuel and a light haze. i pulled fprv again, no fuel came out this time, but o-ring damaged, replaced it. Checked all fuel lines again. took out all plugs on passenger side, no fuel. Didnt' do driver's side, too lazy.
This time it acts a lil different....I keep the key over and it turns over and stops and does that 2 or 3 times, like there is no battery but I've got cables to another vehicle and I've let it charge and kept em on. Every time I try to crank it it's like the battery is dead, the clock resets to 12:00 and everything else. Logged fuel pressure, it's fine. Logged battery voltage with cables attached and 10.9v is the highest I get. Tried swapping batteries but the other one is top post only.

I had the intermediate shaft apart in order to get to a glowplug earlier and the wifey was playing around and spun the steering wheel, now my steering wheel buttons do nothing, checked all fuses, all seem fine.

it really seems like it's not getting enough juice to turn over. It's a Optima Red Top that only had 10 hours or so on it max, but..........
I took a break and sat in the running vehicle, and fell asleep while truck was charging. Battery looked swollen on top and was hissing and a light haze of smoke...:(
I so ready to throw my hands up and say the hell with it, it's not even funny.

[Fingers]

You will have to either increase you timing or your pilot pulse to clear up the white smoke. White smoke is an indication of a dead injection pulse or incomplete burn.

[05lly2500hd]

You will have to either increase you timing or your pilot pulse to clear up the white smoke. White smoke is an indication of a dead injection pulse or incomplete burn.

ok cool. does this have anything to do with my pistons being cut? cuz I'm on a stock tune
Now if only I can get it cranked.....AGAIN
hOPEFully autozone will warranty the redtop?):h:(

[Fingers]

ok same deal. I let the truck run for 5 minutes or so twice. Started her up again and let her run about 10 minutes. "Battery not charging" came on DIC.
Smoke was bad enough I had to roll my windows up. White smoke. Truck will not crank again. had wifey try and I smelt exhaust, smelt like fuel and a light haze. i pulled fprv again, no fuel came out this time, but o-ring damaged, replaced it. Checked all fuel lines again. took out all plugs on passenger side, no fuel. Didnt' do driver's side, too lazy.
This time it acts a lil different....I keep the key over and it turns over and stops and does that 2 or 3 times, like there is no battery but I've got cables to another vehicle and I've let it charge and kept em on. Every time I try to crank it it's like the battery is dead, the clock resets to 12:00 and everything else. Logged fuel pressure, it's fine. Logged battery voltage with cables attached and 10.9v is the highest I get. Tried swapping batteries but the other one is top post only.

I had the intermediate shaft apart in order to get to a glowplug earlier and the wifey was playing around and spun the steering wheel, now my steering wheel buttons do nothing, checked all fuses, all seem fine.

it really seems like it's not getting enough juice to turn over. It's a Optima Red Top that only had 10 hours or so on it max, but..........
I took a break and sat in the running vehicle, and fell asleep while truck was charging. Battery looked swollen on top and was hissing and a light haze of smoke...:(
I so ready to throw my hands up and say the hell with it, it's not even funny.


Take a deep breath....In.... Out.

Steering column buttons are screwed. You are going to have to open up the column to fix. Do that later.

White smoke is a tuning issue. Glow plugs maybe?

No crank: I have the bad feeling you have toasted your starter and or at least one of your batteries. :( You can not just crank and crank and crank or something is going to give. Unhook one battery. See if the voltage comes up. Then swap. If it does not come up with either, unhook both and just power up with the jumper cables. Voltage?

[05lly2500hd]

Take a deep breath....In.... Out.

Steering column buttons are screwed. You are going to have to open up the column to fix. Do that later.

White smoke is a tuning issue. Glow plugs maybe?

No crank: I have the bad feeling you have toasted your starter and or at least one of your batteries. :( You can not just crank and crank and crank or something is going to give. Unhook one battery. See if the voltage comes up. Then swap. If it does not come up with either, unhook both and just power up with the jumper cables. Voltage?
I only have one battery. I'll see if I can replace the battery first I guess. Would the starter still turn over if it was screwed?
Truck acts identical to when a battery is dead and it won't crank.

How did that go ........??? out...in....in....in..in.....out, no that's not it,:D

voltage on cluster says 12, efilive says 10.9 and drops to beetween 5 and 7 while cranking.
If i take that battery off, the only one and use cables??? or is taht pointless?

[05lly2500hd]

I was thinking battery could be bad, hence the battery not charging message, and partially why it won't crank now. I mean the battery was smoking and hissing and even bubbled up on the top of it, sure hope I didn't burn up my starter though, if it was burnt up it wouldn't turn over at all correct?

man there's not enought daylight in a day....

[05lly2500hd]

Well I replaced the battery, better now. But I'm thinking the starter is going out. When I turn the key over it turns over only for 2 seconds then cuts out and does it again. Even with the new battery on or off charge. Clock is not resetting so I know I'm not draining the battery. Starter is hot and it's been through hell.
OMG...........GM dealer wants $850 for a starter....they'll give it to me for $562 because I've bought so much there....called autozone, $164 with lifetime warranty.
I'm gonna take my starter up there have em test it and replace it if need be.

I did notice while pumping primer an air bubble right below the plunger, coming out of the plunger housing, so I dissasemble it , cleaned and reinstalled, making sure to put everything back in order and not tear up the 3 o-rings, primed it, still actin funny, starter will only turn over for 2 seconds then cuts out then turns over and does it again all while having the key turned over once.

[05lly2500hd]

If anyone has any ideas or think you really might know what I need to do, call me as I won't be around the computer....truck is at a different location. Please don't hesitate to call...... 214-608-7956 jeromy
ok replaced starter, yea it was bad. Pulled her home, so truck is here. When I turn it over it bumps every now and then like it's about to crank.

[05lly2500hd]

it almost sounds like something is bound up....god I sure hope not. I may try and turn it over by hand..

I could have sworn I put almost 10 quarts of motor oil in it, well I checked it yesterday and had to add a quart or so and today it's about half way on the dipstick.

[05lly2500hd]

ok turned over by hand, can't tell if anything is bound, it is stiff, but no harder than it was before I put stuff on it. Unless it's my mind telling me no no no no no no nothing is bound up.
Anyone want to hear it?

When all this happened truck was running, sounded fine, just a tad loud and smoking white heavily, ran about 10 minutes and died, never did crank again.
Now when I turn it over, there is not continous turning over it goes, stops, goes, and stops....

[Fingers]

You have to pre-charge the oil galleries on the engine before you start. Either by spinning the oil pump by hand or pressure feeding the oil into the main lines. I hope you did or you might have a problem. A dry oil pump has a hard time priming with cold oil.

[05lly2500hd]

You have to pre-charge the oil galleries on the engine before you start. Either by spinning the oil pump by hand or pressure feeding the oil into the main lines. I hope you did or you might have a problem. A dry oil pump has a hard time priming with cold oil.
I only spun it to do valve lash. front cover was on when I recieved it. I disconnected bale connectors and bumped it over to help with oiling. When it ran and when I crank it it showed 45-65 lbs of oil pressure. It's HV pump from Curtis too, if that means anything.

[05lly2500hd]

so does that mean I f'ed something up?.................AAAAARRRRRGGGGHHHH, anyone want to buy a Duramax?

[Fingers]

If you showed oil pressure right away, you should be fine.

[05lly2500hd]

If you showed oil pressure right away, you should be fine.It did, it bumped right over to 60-65ish and settled a little lower than that like maybe 45, Autometer C2 100psi electric. SHHHHEEEWW!
BOY my stomach just turned the WRONG way.

[Fingers]

pop all the glow plugs and turn it over with the starter. It should turn over easy. It will hiss and whistle a little.

[05lly2500hd]

pop all the glow plugs and turn it over with the starter. It should turn over easy. It will hiss and whistle a little.

I have and it did. but no fuel came out. There is only one plug I didn't pull, guess I'll have to move that steering shaft and get to it.



I do have a small coolant leak where the tube goes into the thermostat housing, bad o-ring I think, and it's draining to back of block and coming out of a hole right above starter, some hole in flywheel housing right below the triangular shaped plate where on the other side the oil cooler would mount.


opened fumoto, just looks, smells and feels like oil.

[Fingers]

How does it crank w/o the plugs in?

[05lly2500hd]

Well I was on the phone with Rick and when I got off I tried cranking(battery was on cables) and it turned over MUCH better. It's almost like something is draining the battery, if I leave it on long enough it may crank but I'm afraid of burning up this battery too.
Rick told me how to bypass the signal wire to starter and I did and it seemed to turn over better but still didn't crank.
I'm going through the wiring harness now, maybe something was telling starter not to crank engine, whether anti-theft or a short, loose connection or whatever.
Off subject MAYBE but what the hell is that connector on the side of the fuse block under the hood, dosen't look like anything was ever plugged into it.
Any pointers on where to look in wiring?
I checked my grounds 3 on passenger side(2 from cam/crank sensor harness one from starter signal harness), 3 on driver's side(main, one in oil level harness and one in starter signal harness), head to firewall and firewall to hood, are there any more?? I know the starter relay has nothing to do with it now with it bypassed, but while hooked up correctly could the relay possibly be bad since starter was? Maybe it was cutting out?

I've had DSP5 switch hooked up this whole time on stock tune, just got through cutting the wires, valet mode switch wires are cut as well but have been for a while.
Stock oil pressure sensor is not plugged in as I cannot get the connector on it but before I had problems a year ago I disconnected it and installed a mechanical guage and it would still crank so I don't think that is what it is.
man these sure are turning into some long posts.
Only codes on efilive are TCM requesting MIL and right front deployment, driver's frontal deployment(airbags) and some wheel speed sensors that I've had for 2 years or so.
Only DIC message is SERVICE AIRBAG and steering wheel buttons are shot.
Someone tell me one thing...........The glow plugs not working or the controller being bad would not cause this correct?

[05lly2500hd]

when I try to turn over bypassing starter, it's now like battery is dead..I'm scared of doing too much more as starter is hot, don't wanna blow it again.
would kennedy pump have anything to do with it electrically? The oil psi sensor is not hooked up but it never was to begin with.

[05lly2500hd]

Still just throwing stuff out there guys but here goes.....

I have the 3 grounds on the passenger side under "ONE" bolt, one from starter harness, two from cam/crank sensor harness. I did wonder why GM's manual showed 2 ground wires coming from exact same harness under two seperate bolts roughly an inch away from the other.

[Fingers]

The Grounds are many on the Dmax and all important.

[05lly2500hd]

The Grounds are many on the Dmax and all important.
would it matter that they're under one bolt and not three, could that mess with the electronics? Feedback? harmonics?

[Fingers]

shouldn't matter.

[05lly2500hd]

valve lash? loose connection at ECM? The blue connector is kinda fidgety. EFILive won't even connect now, did up until just now.

[05lly2500hd]

can an injector hang closed? And not allow fuel out, say if something was in fuel? Since I've already checked to see if they were hung open.

[Fingers]

From your description you have two problems. One, you're not cranking well. The other is the no-start.I suspect they are related.

You said your are only running on one battery. Describe your set up with One Battery. What did you do to use only one.

[05lly2500hd]

From your description you have two problems. One, you're not cranking well. The other is the no-start.I suspect they are related.

You said your are only running on one battery. Describe your set up with One Battery. What did you do to use only one.
I added Nathan's set of twins and erlocated the battery, well I didn't like the location of the second battery so I removed it, never had a problem without it. I had it rerouted to right above thepassenger side rear wheel. I wrapped off the cables and only have one RedTop Optima under the hood now. It sure does act like it's not getting enough juice to crank, I just can't imagine it takingtwo batteries to crank.

[05lly2500hd]

What if I took the battery out of my tahoe and hooked it up with truck and tried it? Only problem is that battery is not very good. And I'm WAY low on cash, and I mean WAY low. I hate to buy a battery only to find out i need another starter or another ECM or something, ya know. but please keep it coming. you found my first problem, my ears well eyes are open WIDE!

[Fingers]

Don't think it is the battery, but it might be something to do with the cables or wires. It is so very important that the ground for the battery is correct.

[05lly2500hd]

Don't think it is the battery, but it might be something to do with the cables or wires. It is so very important that the ground for the battery is correct.then the only ground I have the main for the battery goes directly to the front driver's side of the block where there are 4 bolt holes, it is one of them along with a ground for the starter I believe.

In YOUR opinion could incorrectly set valve lash have anything to do with it?

[Fingers]

It would not have started in the first place.

[Fingers]

You never said if it cranked easily with the glow plugs out.

[05lly2500hd]

You never said if it cranked easily with the glow plugs out.

it never "cranked" but yes it turned over better/"easier" with glow plugs out on one side.

[05lly2500hd]

It would not have started in the first place.That's what I was thinking. Would have never cranked and ran so good in the first place.

[Fingers]

OK, so we are back to an electrical/starter problem.

[05lly2500hd]

OK, so we are back to an electrical/starter problem.

Is that what you think or am I just making it sound that way? I did replace the starter and battery today, hopefuuly haven't fried the new starter already, didn't nearly crank on it like the original.
I'm not a mechanic by no means but to me when I turn it over, it is losing tons of juice somewhere.

[05lly2500hd]

ok just went out there this morning tried to turn over, same thing but my radio clock reset to 12:00 like I disconnected the battery and re-connected it, it seems to do that everytime I try to crank, battery voltage was showing 12v on cluster, I'm sure it's pretty close with efilive logging as well.
That is what stumps me, something kills the battery, gonna put on the second one now.
I really dont know where else to look for bad connections in the harnesses. I've rechecked all the grounds and all. Something is killing that battery.
question:

There are 2 wires in the harness for the starter, the smaller harness, one is the signal/"switchleg" to turn over the starter(the smaller of the two), the other wire is a ground correct???

[05lly2500hd]

ok hookeed up a battery that is not in great condition and it already seems better, gonna buy a new one, let em charge for 10 minutes or so and see what happens.
__________________

[05lly2500hd]

ok battery on, MUCH better, letting it charge now. Still kinda cuts out, can't tell if fuel delivery is cutting out or if starter is cutting out, just got the starter yesterday, from autozone.
I wish you guys could hear it.....will see if I can figure out how to upload a video/audio

[05lly2500hd]

here ya go. it sounds worse on video, I just watched it and noticed.......look about where the battery's ground goes, below the ECM, below the belt, is that a spark?? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xrV3JkgIu4 never mind think that is paint on the power steering pulley, if you enlargen it you can tell.

[05lly2500hd]

that's with 2 brand new batteries and a brand new starter.Every now and then a TCM requesting MIL
once or twice a U1000 Class 2 Data Link
2 airbag codes
and some wheel speed sensor codes that have been there since before motor blew.

[Fingers]

Sounds fine for cranking.

Now, what is the rail pressure and commanded pulse width.

[05lly2500hd]

rail pressure is 1500+ while cranking...what PID should I log for commanded pulse width?
Last night I had trouble getting EFILive to connect, will try again now. PIDs?

[05lly2500hd]

commanded fuel pressure regulator flow?
injector pulse width (per each injector)? prolly this one?
main injection fuel flow rate 2?
will log em all along with some others.

[05lly2500hd]

Got a BUNCH like maybe 10 codes all U1000 Class 2 Data Link
2 TCM requesting MIL


main fuel flow rate2 from -512 to 72.5 average of 98.1

timing 0.0-4.0 avg of 1.7

actual fuel rail pressure avg. 2803 / desired 6092

coolant 79*

RPM average of 36, 233 max

[05lly2500hd]

is that class 2 data link code , a lost comm with ECM?? How many modules do our trucks have? 6? 10?
ECM
TCM
FICM
BCM
EBCM
glow plug controller
if one of these were bad, could that cause it?

[05lly2500hd]

It is DEFINETLY something electrical, I wiggled the TCM and ECM wiring and checked codes, No U1000, truck is REALLY trying to crank, it bumps over like it wants to.
I have a copy of GM's service manual and am in the process of looking up in it the procedures for a DTC U1000, but I have no Tech 2. There are a lot of modules that communicate on the CAN-BUS system/Class 2 serial data network, something is not communicating allowing it to crank. Either ECM or TCM. It is so much closer to cranking, I'm almost giddy inside.
When I lowered the engine in the motor kinda sat on the TCM wiring, but wifey seen it and I immediately moved it. I have checked TCM wiring and it seems fine..

man I wish I had a spare ECM, this one has always had a loose connection.........................

[Fingers]

Do a full DTC reset with EFI. Wonder if your anti-theft is kicking in......:hmmm:

[05lly2500hd]

I'm gonna be the post king by the time this is done, just wanna keep you guys updated so no one is searching in the wrong direction. I SINCERELY appreciate all you guys helping out, I'm gonna out alot of people dinner and a beer..or 2 or 12.

ok,
I disconnected the TCM completely, truck did exact same, almost cranking.
checked the codes with TCM disconnected and have:

Code: Module:
U1000 Body Control Module
U1000 Instrument Panel Cluster
U1000 Transfer Case

hooked TCM back up, cleared codes, didn't come back. Tried to crank, same. disconnected EFILive, reconnected, tried to crank, same. Checked codes ....NO U1000

[05lly2500hd]

Do a full DTC reset with EFI. Wonder if your anti-theft is kicking in......:hmmm:I did a full reset, airbags come back and every once in a while the wheel sensors come back. But that's it.

[05lly2500hd]

I am using the " #2 key" I don't have the #1 key/fob.

[05lly2500hd]

I FOUND THIS:

It is common for the leaf contacts and/or the resistor pellet on the key bow to become contaminated to the point where the VATS decoder module cannot correctly sense the pellet resistance, or cannot sense any resistance at all. This would usually cause a no crank/no start situation. Cleaning the key pellet and leaf contacts can frequently restore system operation. Because of the risk of contamination and other reasons, NO liquid lubricants should ever be used on the ignition lock cylinder. The generally accepted lubricant for ANY lock cylinder, whether a plate or pin type mechanism, is powdered graphite ONLY. This especially applies to VATS ignition lock cylinders.

It is also common for the two wires from the ignition lock cylinder contacts to break due to the necessary flexing which occurs every time the ignition lock is moved. This can usually be diagnosed by measuring key pellet resistance at the VATS module or at the connector at the base of the steering column.

There is a small two-wire connector in the upper bowl of the steering column which can become damaged or disconnected as well, since clearance between moving parts in the upper column bowl are minimal.

The connector at the base of the steering column can fail if subjected to stress, moisture, or movement if the lower bolster trim is not in place.

The connector at the VATS decoder module is generally reliable, and the connection at the start enable relay is also relatively safe from interference and reliable. However, all connections should be checked when diagnosing the system since any connection can fail or add resistance to the circuits. The start enable relay itself is a mechanical device, and can fail after prolonged use.

[05lly2500hd]

fuel filter primer button still gets soft after a while after priming.

[05lly2500hd]

WD-40 in the intake makes it want to crank, waiting on wifey to help me agian.

[swatkins]

Just a though,,,, IF it wants to start with starter fluid/wd-40 in the intake, the primmer is getting soft and the only time it did start was when you messed with the fuel rail would not that make you really want to check over the fuel system again?

[neversatisfied]

I agree, you probably need to check your fuel system.

What did you find with the spark in the video?

[05lly2500hd]

I have rechecked all the fuel lines, and fittings. I took the fprv back out and a little fuel came out, tapped on it and it popped open, took one of the three washers out for the hell of it.
Even so, the WD-40 is gonna burn regardless, correct? Couldn't there still be an electrical problem telling the injectors not to fire or something of the such. WD-40 will burn anyway because it is being forced in the intake and has to go somewhere, combusts and pushes the piston down, regardless of where the real problem is. Am I right or no? I really don't know just asking.
the "spark" turned out to be paint on the power steering pulley.

[Fingers]

When was the last time you looked in the fuse box? I know you did at the beginning, but have you since it stopped running?

Also, when you crank, does fuel come out of the bypass line when you disconnect it?

You need to narrow it down to either a fuel or an electrical problem.

[05lly2500hd]

When was the last time you looked in the fuse box? I know you did at the beginning, but have you since it stopped running?

Also, when you crank, does fuel come out of the bypass line when you disconnect it?

You need to narrow it down to either a fuel or an electrical problem.
I've checked the fuses often.
bypass line? hard line on driver's side head that return lines go into ?

[05lly2500hd]

took driver's side plugs out, turned it over while i watched with video, did again watched without fumbling with the camera and then did it a third time with paper towels in front of holes. No liquid whatsoever, one or two did have some fumes/gas come out but no liquid. gonna upload video now.
does this just mean I don't have a hung injector on this side or does it mean that I'm not getting any fuel?

[05lly2500hd]

This is the video, I never unplugged the injectors, all I did was take glowplugs out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTszwINggMc

[Fingers]

Looks like fuel! :D At least in a couple holes.

Did you get the crank keyed? Spun the reluctor on the crank maybe? Rick Lance did that once....

[05lly2500hd]

Looks like fuel! :D At least in a couple holes.

Did you get the crank keyed? Spun the reluctor on the crank maybe? Rick Lance did that once....

crank was keyed supposedly...... builder installed everything to front cover and water pump. so you think that is fuel? Hoqw would you spin the reluctor? Isn't it bolted or no? Any easy way to tell for sure? I did remove the crankshaft sensor, according to GM's manual to see if the reluctor wheel would move, or at least I thought it was the reluctor wheel, gold gear looking wheel, on crankshaft, it did not wobble or move in/out left or right.

[Fingers]

smell like fuel?

[05lly2500hd]

smell like fuel?
yea kinda a lil bit.
Duh, huh? lol

[05lly2500hd]

ok question...........builder used LB7 block, crank and cam and pistons................are the reluctor wheels different between LB7 and LLY? like the LBZ is??

[05lly2500hd]

what bypass line are you speaking of, or would it be pointless to try that now?
I did disconnect the return line where the rubber meets the hard line on driver's side head and a LITTLE fuel came out whereas before when I wasn't building rail pressure a bit more would come out. Also heard a little guzzling sound like it was draining back. But I didn't do it while cranking.

[Fingers]

To my knowledge they are the same.

I need to go out to the garage and look at something on my engine. I want you to check the alignment of the reluctor on the crank shaft, but I have to give you a couple things to help.

[Fingers]

If you disconnect the small fuel quick connect (return line) there should be fuel coming out of the line when you crank. I use a length of clear tygon tubing to a catch can so I can see it from the cab. That also lets me see if there are bubbles in the fuel. Which means there is a vacuum leak upstream of the pump somewhere.

[05lly2500hd]

ok I'll try the fuel line real quick.

[05lly2500hd]

fuel came out didn't notice any bubbles.

[Fingers]

Back to electrical.

I am thinking the reluctor wheel came loose. You were running then......nothing. Injectors seem to be firing.

Just to check, remove the crank position sensor and hand turn the engine clockwise till you can see the gap through the hole. (three missing teeth) Now tell me where the notch is in the harmonic dampener. Should be ~ the 4:00 position looking from the front of the engine.

[05lly2500hd]

Back to electrical.

I am thinking the reluctor wheel came loose. You were running then......nothing. Injectors seem to be firing.

Just to check, remove the crank position sensor and hand turn the engine clockwise till you can see the gap through the hole. (three missing teeth) Now tell me where the notch is in the harmonic dampener. Should be ~ the 4:00 position looking from the front of the engine.
on my way.

[05lly2500hd]

yes it is roughly at the 4:00 position, right about in the center of the hump/lil raised part of the front cover.

[05lly2500hd]

checked EDU fuse and relay, they are ok.
off subject question.........there are two wires that go to starter, not the battery ones, smaller ones.........one goes to starter(signal) and the other is a ground (that I have under one of the same bolts for cam/crank sensor ground), correct? Follow that same harness back over to driver's side and there is another ground that I have under same bolt as battery negative ground.

[05lly2500hd]

I am getting a buttload of fuel from glowplug holes on passenger side with injectors unplugged...............To Be continued..

[05lly2500hd]

well now no more fuel out of plug holes...................DAMN IT!!

[05lly2500hd]

Ok what about valve lash, I'm thinking I may need to check it tommorrow. I know it is set right according to GM's manual. Only possibility is that I got compression and exhaust strokes mixed up.

What I did:
turning motor over by hand with the groove in the balancer lined up with the one on the front cover....
What I THOUGHT was comprssion stroke I adjusted (I is for intake, E for exhaust)
2E
6I
8E
1I
1E
3I
5I
7E
AND on exhaust stroke:
2I
4E
4I
6E
8I
3E
5E
7I
When I thought I had it on compression stroke, the ones I adjusted(see above) were looser than the others(valve was closed or in other words, spring not compressed), not exactly matching the ones GM says you can adjust but pretty damn close, so in other words, the ones I adjusted the springs were NOT compressed.
IE:
what I THOUGHT was compression stroke:
2E, 6I, 8E, 1I, 1E, 3I, 5I, 7E the springs were NOT compressed or at least not nearly as much as the others. Same for the other stroke, was that right or wrong????
__________________

[moduramaxdad]

i thought the reluctor wheels were different for all of them. i know for a fact that the LB7 and the LBZ are different. i put an LBZ block in an 03 not knowing they were different took me 2 weeks and several nights without sleep to figure out why it wouldnt run. it sounded alot alot like yours when it was cranking.

[05lly2500hd]

i thought the reluctor wheels were different for all of them. i know for a fact that the LB7 and the LBZ are different. i put an LBZ block in an 03 not knowing they were different took me 2 weeks and several nights without sleep to figure out why it wouldnt run. it sounded alot alot like yours when it was cranking.
I really don't know......I remember McRat posting something about this, I think between LBZ and LLY though.

[RickDLance]

If it started before on those valve setting and reluctor wheel it should start again on them. I'd look somewhere else.

[05lly2500hd]

If it started before on those valve setting and reluctor wheel it should start again on them. I'd look somewhere else.

thank you , that's what I was thinking . I was just wanting someone else to say it.

[05lly2500hd]

Even if this doesn't turn out for the best for me and this truck, i've got one thing to say....this site and other sites since the breakup have got some very intelligent but most of all kind and sincere folks. It is amazing the help I've been offered and given. It's really touching to get these pm's and phone calls from folks that actually care. You guys know who you are, and from the deepest part of my heart, thank you. The deeds will not go unnoticed or forgotten. And as well for those of you following along, giving ideas and replying, I appreciate it.
It's been rough and I had no where else to turn but here to these forums and you guys answered the call. Again, Thank YOU.

[blksmok]

Man, everytime I see a new post from you in this thread I think "Thank god, he finally got the dang thing started!!... " Then I click on it to read and my heart sinks. I wish I could offer some insight, but I think you are already getting better help than I could offer. I really can't wait for the "I got it!!" post. Keep at it. I'm sure with the minds we have here, you'll get it running. Wish I could be more help on this one...

[Fingers]

Didn't think you had the wrong reluctor. I thought you might have spun it similar to what Rick did on one of his rebuilds. But it seems to be in the right place.

From what you have said so far:

You can crank the engine. But no start

You are getting rail pressure according to EFI?

Injection is commanded?

The last time you cranked without the glow plugs the cylinders were dry. That is, no fuel being injected.

You are sure the Theft thing is turned off?

Fuses and such check out.

No codes

I keep thinking FICM.

[05lly2500hd]

Didn't think you had the wrong reluctor. I thought you might have spun it similar to what Rick did on one of his rebuilds. But it seems to be in the right place.

From what you have said so far:

You can crank the engine. But no start

You are getting rail pressure according to EFI?

Injection is commanded?

The last time you cranked without the glow plugs the cylinders were dry. That is, no fuel being injected.

You are sure the Theft thing is turned off?

Fuses and such check out.

No codes

I keep thinking FICM.

All correct, except for injection being commanded, not sure which PID will tell me that, I'm sure I've logged it though, just don't know which it is.
FICM is the one module I haven't taken the connectors off to check or fooled with much.

[stacks04]

i keep thinking that ficm also. i had one before that just cranked and cranked. no codes nothing. swapped ficm's with a known good one we had laying around from mackins truck and viola it fired right up. i can't keep wondering. especially with the battery issues and what not. did anything short out on the ficm, or short to the ficm rather? where was the ficm for the last year? could it have been dropped or gotten wet or anything?

[05lly2500hd]

FICM has been in back seat of cab for the last year, I havent' had the truck the whole time, Diesel Innovations had it for a few months, they're the ones that took it apart. Don't think it got wet, could have got smacked by all the jumbled mess that was in back seat.

[Fingers]

Do you have access to a scope?

[05lly2500hd]

Do you have access to a scope?

nosir, sure don't you talking like a borescope or whatever?

[Fingers]

No. An oscilloscope. A volt meter that measures frequency would work too.

Want to check where the signal ends for the injectors.

[RickDLance]

Who put the harmonic balancer on?

[05lly2500hd]

Who put the harmonic balancer on?

builder, David Basham of BMS Machine in San Bernandino, CA

[05lly2500hd]

No. An oscilloscope. A volt meter that measures frequency would work too.

Want to check where the signal ends for the injectors.

no sure don't....

thinking of seeing if GM dealer can do something...does thier "diagnostic check" do more than read DTCs???

[05lly2500hd]

No. An oscilloscope. A volt meter that measures frequency would work too.

Want to check where the signal ends for the injectors.
so like if the injector signal is getting sent all the way to the injector? Should I continue looking for shorts/bad connections in that wiring? Or you thinking it may be inside one of the modules?

Would everything still do like it does now and seem ok with no codes if say the ECM or FICM was bad?? I did have valet switch and DSP5 switch hooked up when I loaded in the stock tune.

[05lly2500hd]

dealer's diesel mechanic is gonna try and make a house call with his Tech 2. gonna put everything half ass back together and make sure stock tune is in so he can't blame it on that. Maybe at least he can tell me if any of my modules are bad.

Hey guys, hit me up with questions to ask him, things to have him check.........
IE: injector circuit signal, etc.

[Fingers]

Don't know. That is why I would start looking for injection pulse signals in wires.

[stacks04]

bringing it to the dealer as long as they are a good diesel dealer might not be a bad idea. at this point the money your losing not having the truck running equals what the dealer may cost you. i understand your frustration, but they have the tools and allt he info to go farther that you can.

[05lly2500hd]

because I had done the injector #2 and #7 fix, a guy from DP a long time ago sent me 2 good inctor connectors off an old harness that was replaced under his warranty, it was from different connectors than the ones that go bad, I'll check those while waiting on dealer, I 'll ask dealer mech. about the injection pulse signals too.

[05lly2500hd]

WOOOOOOOHHHHHHOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

YOU'LL never guess.......................I had the injector harness connectors swapped on cylinders #2 and #4, it cranked right up, a little rough, no notice of smoke, gonna do it again with intake back on, hopefully no probs.

[stacks04]

when is he coming? things to ask, crank signal if it seems right. i know you can put the wheel on backwards. ask him if he thinks its the plugs and wires:D. atleast you'll know if he is a diesel mechanic. lol

[stacks04]

nevermind

[05lly2500hd]

can anyone tell me the colors of each cylinder's injector connector wires?Or how to tell if I have the right ones plugged up. She fires but has a fuel knock, thinking I may have more injector connectors crossed.

[05lly2500hd]

if Fingers never would have said anything about the injector wiring.....................I would have never looked. Thank You. to ALL of you.

[Fingers]

You have and LLY right, I can go look at my truck.

[05lly2500hd]

You have and LLY right, I can go look at my truck.

Stewie Tuned got em for me, thanks.

[stacks04]

okay number 1 is orange and rd/lt grn
2 is rd/wh and wh/ye
3 is rd/wh and wh/bu
4 is orng and wh/lt gr
5 is rd/wh and rd l-gn
6 is orng and d-bu/wh
7 is orng and wh/rd
8 is rd/wh and wh/gr

[05lly2500hd]

okay number 1 is orange and rd/lt grn
2 is rd/wh and wh/ye
3 is rd/wh and wh/bu
4 is orng and wh/lt gr
5 is rd/wh and rd l-gn
6 is orng and d-bu/wh
7 is orng and wh/rd
8 is rd/wh and wh/gr
Thank You.

[swatkins]

Damn,.... This is ending too soon! My next guess was "Is there was fuel in the tank" :)

Glad you got it started!

[05lly2500hd]

it's not over yet. died and won't crank, after I revved it to 1500 rpms and tried out the brakes., air bubble?

[05lly2500hd]

Damn,.... This is ending too soon! My next guess was "Is there was fuel in the tank" :)

Glad you got it started!
yes 15 galloons, and it's DIESEL. ):h

[swatkins]

it's not over yet. died and won't crank, after I revved it to 1500 rpms and tried out the brakes., air bubble?


Did you try priming it again?

[05lly2500hd]

Did you try priming it again?
yep, 6-10 times.I get a light smacking sound now, that is a little less than a second apart while trying to crank. valve smacking piston? hope not.

[RickDLance]

It sounds like to me it's got to be a vacuum leak in the fuel supply side or a loose connection in the wiring. That's the only things that explain the starts, then won't. Starts' then won't.

How did you drain the tank? Also double check the fuel line connection just about the DS valve cover.

[05lly2500hd]

It sounds like to me it's got to be a vacuum leak in the fuel supply side or a loose connection in the wiring. That's the only things that explain the starts, then won't. Starts' then won't.

How did you drain the tank? Also double check the fuel line connection just about the DS valve cover.The return line wouldn't matter would it?

i wanna throw a fit like a little girl...........
I took bed off, and stuck a wetvac down there and sucked up all the fuel. What if the sending unit, "locknut" on top of tank wasn't tight??? That big 6 or 8" diameter ring

[RickDLance]

i wanna throw a fit like a little girl...........


Can you video that and post it on youtube?):h

Any chance you kinked a line? Any chance you might have popped a fitting loose? Maybe go back under there and double check that they are are pushed together good.;)

[05lly2500hd]

Can you video that and post it on youtube?):h

Any chance you kinked a line? Any chance you might have popped a fitting loose? Maybe go back under there and double check that they are are pushed together good.;)

already have thanks.

[swatkins]

I took bed off, and stuck a wetvac down there and sucked up all the fuel.


On behalf of myself and my fellow paramedics everywhere, I would like to thank you for your unselfish devotion to our continuing Job Security! :D

[05lly2500hd]

On behalf of myself and my fellow paramedics everywhere, I would like to thank you for your unselfish devotion to our continuing Job Security! :D

LOL, not a prob. Oh yeah, and you're welcome.. :)

[05lly2500hd]

valve lash, bad off, pushrods not making any contact, valve bridges even came off valves, got the upper covers off now, guess I'm gonna have to take lowers and injectors off in order to check the pushrods for straightness. I can't get them out without pulling lower cover... Thanks to NLDP and RaceHemi I think I may have the valve adjusting down pat. Thank guys.

[neversatisfied]

:eek: wow, glad you found the problem. Hopefully none of your pushrods are bent.

[RickDLance]

Holler at me if you need any pushrods.;)

[05lly2500hd]

pushrods seem fine. resetting lash tonight/tommorrow.......trying to decide on how to do it, everyone's got me going in different directions, GM manual, and turning motor over twice per cylinder to set em, one at a time......................????

[RickDLance]

Forget the manual. Do it the way us racers have done it for years. Especially if your cam isn't stock. ;)

[05lly2500hd]

cam is stock.

[05lly2500hd]

got her fired up, got to hook fuel tank back up and have a small oil leak around lower valve cover. Thanks to all that helped and most of all thanks to the good man upstairs!

[blksmok]

Congrats. Glad you could finally make that post!

[Schwinn68]

Now have a safe journey!

[moduramaxdad]

congrats, now lets see some video of it running

[05lly2500hd]

thanks guys I appreciate it. no video yet. I've been driving all weekend and came up to PA and a day after being here(1500 miles) I got a knock, sounds like a fuel knock, just all of sudden. Loss of power too. Injector #7 balance rate is 12.87 or so, swapped it with injector #3 and still same cylinder had a wacky reading. no codes. hope it's not major. locked my keys in truck , so it was a bad day yesterday, after towing truck, fiddling with it in the rain and then locking my keys in it.....
hopefully a wiring or FICM issue at least nothing internal...
I did rent a dumptruck for work today, showed up with a duramax....HMMMMMMM! ):h

[RickDLance]

Post up the codes it had.;)

[05lly2500hd]

Post up the codes it had.;)

It did have P0206? injector #6 control circuit
P0207? injector #7 control circuit
and
P2146 Injector positive control circuit group

I think it was because I had them unplugged, I cleared the codes 6 or so times and they finally went away. They're not there now either.

[05lly2500hd]

changed injector connectors on #7 and #4 to see if problem moved but I cannot get efi to log the balance rates, it logs everything else though. Knock seems quiter though, maybe just me.

[05lly2500hd]

It's a bearing, copper in oil filter, less than 1600 miles on engine. calling builder tommorrow.

[neversatisfied]

No way! Sorry to hear that.

[05lly2500hd]

talked to builder, he seems cool about it, now just gotta get it to Tony Burkhard's to have him tear it down and see what happened.
I sure hope it's covered under the warranty. I can't think of anything I could have done to cause this, but who knows, with the luck I've been having, huh?
Anyone headed up to Michigan? or have a bumper pull I can borrow?
Thanks.

[Fingers]

Just realized you are in my neck of the woods.

[05lly2500hd]

Just realized you are in my neck of the woods.
I'm in Waynesburg.

[Fingers]

I'm just east of McKeesport. About an hour drive.

[Mike]

Maybe in the wrong spot but here goes....

I just recently had a shortblock built and I finished it and installed it in truck.
cut pistons and Howard's rods, cam and crank pin fix.

Well it's turning over but won't fire up and start. I've checked everything time and time again to no avail. no fuel leaks that I can see.
Logging actual rail pressure with efilive only shows 180 psi while cranking....need 1500+ I'm told.
took glow plugs out and cranked to see if injector was stuck open, no fuel cam out of holes.
I've rechecked all fuel lines, electrical connections and so on. truck sat for over a year, so I drained tank and added a bottle of standyne and 15 gallons of fresh fuel.

I prime filter head, no go. I do such with bleeder screw closed and no go, yet the pump gets soft again, even if I don't try cranking it. I opened the valve on bottom of filter and pushed button on kennedy controller box and fuel squirted out.
I logged MAINRATE and MAINBPW and they read something like 68 average. Actual rail pressure read 180 psi average.
checked all the fuses too.
no sign of smoke or fuel smell in exhaust pipe.
I took the rubber return line off of the metal line at the rear of the driver's side head and fuel came out in a stream. All new washers and o-rings on injectors.
Truck just turns over and over and shakes like it's really trying to start up, but she just won't do it.

Disconnect the FCA at the CP3. Disconnected the FCA is completely open and should allow rail pressure to sky rocket. If rail comes up, look further. If rail stays at 180psi, you are not getting fuel to the CP3.

[05lly2500hd]

Disconnect the FCA at the CP3. Disconnected the FCA is completely open and should allow rail pressure to sky rocket. If rail comes up, look further. If rail stays at 180psi, you are not getting fuel to the CP3.

we're a little past that man, but thanks!

[05lly2500hd]

I'm just east of McKeesport. About an hour drive.

oohhhh.

[Fingers]

If we get your truck over to my place we can tear into it and see what gives.

[Mike]

we're a little past that man, but thanks!

Ya, I see that now. Sorry about that. I thought I had deleted that post. But at least it's running now or was or something.

[stacks04]

was and seems to be an internal failure. possibly a bearing or the likes. not sure.

[05lly2500hd]

If we get your truck over to my place we can tear into it and see what gives.

wow....I don't know what to do now, you are WAY WAY closer, but I feel obligated to Tony.................hmmmmmm
you equipped to rebuild?

the builder would have to be in contact with you or whoever tore it down and vice versa, with pics and what not.
I could probably be there every weekend if need be, only an hour or so away. Right now, it's getting kinda slow, but here soon I'll be busy weekdays.

[05lly2500hd]

was and seems to be an internal failure. possibly a bearing or the likes. not sure.
exactly, there was copper in oil filter and some other metallic stuff aluminum?
As bad as it sounds I hope it's the builder's fault as I can't afford to rebuild again, I guess we will see.
I am however convinced it is a bearing for sure, whether crank, cam or rod, who knows, I imagine it's a rod bearing maybe cylinder #7, maybe that's why I had funky balance rate in that cylinder???


Hey stacks, if it was a rod bearing say in cylinder #7 like I said above, could that be a cause of the high balance rate?
In other words how in the heck does a 12.?? balance rate in cyl. #7 relate to a bad bearing?

[05lly2500hd]

Ya, I see that now. Sorry about that. I thought I had deleted that post. But at least it's running now or was or something.
no prob, yeah it was running or something, lol. not anymore though.....DAMN IT! :mad::mad::mad:

[05lly2500hd]

also I thought I had a belt squeak I really couldn't find, sounded like it came from driver's side, never could listen for it unless I was driving, so never had my head stuck under hood.
But I'm wondering if the squeak I heard which was relevant with rpm obviously could have been more than a belt squeak? Like maybe the bearing going..........just took 1600 miles to go for good???

anyone?

[stacks04]

exactly, there was copper in oil filter and some other metallic stuff aluminum?
As bad as it sounds I hope it's the builder's fault as I can't afford to rebuild again, I guess we will see.
I am however convinced it is a bearing for sure, whether crank, cam or rod, who knows, I imagine it's a rod bearing maybe cylinder #7, maybe that's why I had funky balance rate in that cylinder???


Hey stacks, if it was a rod bearing say in cylinder #7 like I said above, could that be a cause of the high balance rate?
In other words how in the heck does a 12.?? balance rate in cyl. #7 relate to a bad bearing?

honestly not sure if they could be related. based on theory i guess its possible, if the bearing was to cause resistance the crank sensor could see this as a miss and be trying to compensate for it. if anyone knows this you do, ANYTHING is possible. have you taken the valve cover off? or swapped the injector to see if the balance rate changes. if you put an oil fitler back on will if run? and what noises are present now. not saying to do it for sure, but with the bearing failure from before it is possible to have some debris left in oil passages that the hot tank/builder may not have gotten out. but once you fired it up and saw great pressure like you were the oil itself could have just cleaned the passages that much more and the filter cought it.

[IOWA LLY]

How much oil pressure were you running?

[duratothemax]

How much oil pressure were you running?

more than enough

[IOWA LLY]

more than enough



Maybe thats the problem.;)

[05lly2500hd]

Maybe thats the problem.;)????
I'm confused......it was norm 60-65ish on startup, 35-45 ish idle, highway speeds seen 80ish,
aftermarket oil pump.

[05lly2500hd]

has anyone had problems with these oil pumps?

[RickDLance]

Where you at on this?