RDL up-pipes [Archive] - Dmax Central

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NWTDIESEL

07-09-2008, 07:10 PM

madmaxdmax

07-09-2008, 07:52 PM

I don't personally have one, but I would have to say that theres no time like the present to replace the cracked one with an upgrade. It would be a shame to replace the cracked one just to have a repeated failure.:thumb:

neversatisfied

07-09-2008, 11:37 PM

What trucks on this site are running these RDL up-pipes? Can anybody who has these on ther dmax tell me the benefits/what they like about them? I PM'd a couple peaple but never heard back from anybody. I Have a cracked stocker and need to do something asap. Its getting worse everyday. Im just trying to decide if i should just throw another stocker on or spend some coin and get the RDL's. Thanks!

Were you planning to only replace the up-pipes or were you going to install headers too?
I'm not real sure on the improvements with just up-pipes. The last I heard, it was being tested. I'm sure their will be some improvement but I dont know how much.

I am running headers and up-pipes.

blksmok

07-10-2008, 12:19 AM

There have been tests and I've read posts of the data. I'll let one of the testers chime in so you can hear it from the horses mouth. The data looks pretty good though from what I've seen...

Nick

07-10-2008, 04:02 PM

All I can say right now is that they look very nice. :)):h

I plan on running them hard, we'll see.

Nick

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m201/vortecfcar/001-5.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m201/vortecfcar/002-3.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m201/vortecfcar/003-3.jpg

minisub

07-10-2008, 09:53 PM

Nick,
I know you run a mostly stock exhaust, do you have stock headers too?

Nick

07-10-2008, 10:16 PM

BD manifold... otherwise yes.

I like it quiet. I'll probably put a quiet 4 inch on it shortly (to compliment the downpipe)... I just hate to part with the stock exhaust.

swatkins

07-10-2008, 11:36 PM

Being someone that really has no idea of what these are supposed to do.... They look really close to identical... Well with the exception of the slip joints and what looks to be a bigger inlet and outlet...

Is this the whole point of these, better flow because of the enlarged intake and exhaust?

Nick

07-11-2008, 05:53 AM

I Have a cracked stocker

My interest was purely to prevent the future incidence of this. -:t

Any other gains are a bonus for me.

RickDLance

07-11-2008, 08:57 AM

NWTDIESEL

07-11-2008, 07:59 PM

Power gains? Lower egt's? If the stock one cracks again then so what? I will just replace it again. Why pay more for no gains? Thats what im askin/sayin. Someone with noticable gains or dyno numbers please chime in.

Fingers

07-11-2008, 08:21 PM

I'll know shortly. Truck is on the rack to receive a set.

Rttoys

07-11-2008, 08:52 PM

OK I'll chime in. RDL is making the headers and up pipes for TxChristopher and I have a prototype set on my truck. Gains?? Peak on a dyno 15hp 30lb/ft torque increase on top. Now down low is where they shine, as much as 90lb/ft torque increase at 2000rpm:thumb: right where I tow. Instant power right from the get go. Turbo lag is almost non-existant, acts like a gasser off the line and goes up from there. EGTs went from a 1380 towing to 1240*:) and even ECTs went down 5* over the same course and load:thumb:

Look here: http://thedieselspot.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1168
or here: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=252531

My truck is a different truck now.

Fingers

07-12-2008, 11:02 AM

Driver side OEM pipe is a Biatch to get out. The new pipe wiggles right in though. :)

Still have the passenger side and the down pipe to go. Then a few test runs. I wrapped all three pipes to help with clearances getting everything back in. I also found I had a significant leak in the driver's side pipe where it mates with turbo. I used a liberal amount of Permatex Copper to both help keep the gaskets in place during install and maybe help with the sealing.

Oh, and the Top Side Creeper is a God Send. Thanks Tom! :thumb:

RickDLance

07-12-2008, 12:24 PM

Jon, it's a bitch but try tightening the bolts while everything is warm.;)

Rttoys

07-12-2008, 03:07 PM

I found it easier to pull the heat shield off the dr pipe, then the pipe comes out of the pass side easy as can be. :)

stacks04

07-16-2008, 02:40 PM

any more info fingers? i and others here value your opinion:). i am listening if the egt's stay down a bit.

Fingers

07-16-2008, 05:13 PM

I have not pulled the trailer yet. I have a leak that I need to fix though. As of right now, some EGT improvement, not MPG gain, (that I can find) I hope to have the backpressure gauge back on the truck soon to compare that.

NWTDIESEL

07-16-2008, 06:38 PM

hondarider552

07-17-2008, 02:16 PM

How much are these a set both uppipes and headers? thats a pretty good inprovement on the low end for them.

RickDLance

07-17-2008, 03:14 PM

For the set that Rttoys has you'll need to PM TxChristopher. He is the only one that sells that set.;)

NWTDIESEL

07-18-2008, 09:26 AM

How much are these a set both uppipes and headers? thats a pretty good inprovement on the low end for them.

I will let you know!):h

Fingers

07-22-2008, 11:04 AM

Leak fixed. All much better now. :)

Big Angry

07-22-2008, 05:33 PM

Leak fixed. All much better now. :)
Did 2" band clamps do it Jon?

Fingers

07-22-2008, 08:04 PM

Did 2" band clamps do it Jon?

yes

TNRGreene

07-22-2008, 10:46 PM

As Rick has told me to be honest...here goes. I have the slip fit & yes they leak a little. BUT I'm am making 42lbs boost(40 with stock up pipes) Loosing a little DP at the same time. Is the leak really a problem?

NWTDIESEL

07-23-2008, 12:33 AM

I think the leak is a problem. My stocker leaks a lil and i lost time at the track and gained turbo lag.

Fingers

07-23-2008, 05:35 AM

Todd,

It depends a lot on the drive pressure and the amount of leakage. However, I have really noticed the improvement since I fixed the leak. I would fix the leak if I was you. A 2" band clamp seems to work well.

RickDLance

07-23-2008, 05:32 PM

Todd, I think these guys nailed it. IMHO if you can tell it's leaking then its too much. Fingers has a good fix too.;)

So you picked up 2 pounds of boost? :) What about performance and EGT?

TNRGreene

07-23-2008, 05:38 PM

Todd, I think these guys nailed it. IMHO if you can tell it's leaking then its too much. Fingers has a good fix too.;)

So you picked up 2 pounds of boost? :) What about performance and EGT?
I'll get them "Finger wrapped" then :D
EGT, It idles about 50 less then it did before them. Performance, I made so many other changes at the same time it was really be hard to tell. I think it has a quicker throttle response.

Fingers

07-26-2008, 08:44 AM

Anyone who does this swap, I have a couple tips:

Absolutely use Never Seize on the flange bolts after you get them out!! So many people have gotten the bolts stuck after the replacement.

If you put the stock down pipe back in, remove the OEM heat shield and wrap the pipe instead. The pipe will be much easier to reinstall.

You have loosen the tranny dip stick and move it to the other side of the heater hoses to get clearance on the passenger side.

Install a band clamp loosely on the pipes prior to feeding them into place. I prefer the bolts on the top pointing away from the engine.

Getting the driver's side out is greatly facilitated by raising the cab slightly. Loosen the front and middle cab mount bolts then jack the cab up. 1/2" makes a world of difference!

The flange bolts on the turbo were installed by God himself. I found this little beauty in the Harbor freight catalog. It is a 30:1 torque multiplier for ~$20 that can help you get those !@#$ bolts out in the confined space behind the turbo. Once loosened, they come out fine with normal tools.

http://dmaxcentral.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=323&stc=1&d=1217079509

I use Permatex Copper to keep the gaskets from moving around during installation.

You will have to remove the downpipe support flange from the passenger side up pipe. It is tack welded on the OEM pipe and is easy to break loose.

Fingers

07-26-2008, 08:48 AM

Here is a quick picture of the band on the passenger side.

http://dmaxcentral.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=324&stc=1&d=1217080077

RickDLance

07-26-2008, 09:12 AM

Thank You Jon!!:thumb:

Rttoys

07-26-2008, 11:19 PM

Getting the driver's side out is greatly facilitated by raising the cab slightly. Loosen the front and middle cab mount bolts then jack the cab up. 1/2" makes a world of difference!
.

Remove the heat shield first on the dr. up pipe and it comes out slick as snot.:Handshake:

Trim the turbo heat shield and it will just fall back into place.

and yes, some 7' tall, 550#, bench pressing Toyotas for a live SOB tightened all the exhaust bolts, so be perpared.:help:

Fingers

07-27-2008, 09:39 AM

Remove the heat shield first on the dr. up pipe and it comes out slick as snot.:Handshake:

Forgot to mention that.

There appears to be some clearance variations across years/brands. While I have seen plenty of clearance on the LB7s, the LLY Chevy (mine) would not cooperate even with the heat shield removed. The LBZ looked tight too.

NWTDIESEL

07-27-2008, 12:03 PM

Does it help to start soaking the bolts with PB BLAST a few days before install? Im not worried about my 6 uppipe bolts cause ive already had them off for turbo install.

Rttoys

07-27-2008, 01:50 PM

Forgot to mention that.

There appears to be some clearance variations across years/brands. While I have seen plenty of clearance on the LB7s, the LLY Chevy (mine) would not cooperate even with the heat shield removed. The LBZ looked tight too.

Mine is a LLY and I've had my up pipes in and out many times now, never had a problem once the heat shield was removed. :confuzeld:

Rttoys

07-27-2008, 01:52 PM

Does it help to start soaking the bolts with PB BLAST a few days before install? Im not worried about my 6 uppipe bolts cause ive already had them off for turbo install.

Everything helps, even the bolts up top are probably tight as hell again now.