bog and slow turbo spooling

[mailman]

I am new to the site, and this is my first post. Need some help with my 2004 lly. Just did a few mod's to my truck and things have not worked the way I had hoped. 4in. down pipe back exhaust (good). AFE stage 2 cai. not much differance. PPE level 1 tune (good). The last thing I done was the AFE turbo inlet mp and my truck started to work good to bad. Seems to work okay from dead stop up through the gears most of the time, but will shift bad and spool slow at other times. Works the worst when I am at low RPM's in 5th and try to go WOT. It will bog then slow spool before it starts to rev. What I am reading on here sounds like maf sensor. What do you guys think? Works a little better on level 2 tune. Thanks for any help

[RickDLance]

Have you checked for codes?

[OTHRGRL]

Codes would help but PPE disables MANY codes to where you often don't know if you have a problem. Could be the turbo vane position sensor, especially if you left it unplugged after installing the mouthpiece. In the PPE go through diagnostics and return the truck to stock so that the codes will actually come up to help you troubleshoot it.

[mailman]

I have not checked for codes, but when I get a chance I will put it back to stock and see what I can find. I live in Canada and have to work outdoors. So I just do it when the weather agrees. Have to pull lower dash of to disable my remote start, which is a pain in the butt, before I can hook up tuner. Truck works good enough to drive every day, just not the way it should work. Called PPE a while back and they said it sounds like I need a Release Valve Shim Kit. Did some more research and from what I read, didn't sound like I was running enough hp to warrant that pain in the ass job yet. Called AFE and told them what was going on and they said that there was to much air flow with the Pro Dry S filter , so they sent me a new Pro R 7 oiled filter which they said would help. Installed it and with level 1 tune , seemed to help but not a cure. Upped to level 2 and it worked better still. More fuel with this tune so maybe that helped I don't know. Still not the way that it should be. Thought this information might help until I check for codes.

[Vrabel]

did you oil the filter, or did it come pre oiled? oil will mess up the maf.

[mailman]

The filter came pre oiled, but you could not tell, it felt dry. I bought a can of maf cleaner and sprayed it when I installed the filter. The maf wires looked fine to me. I am trying to find out how you reflash the ECM to change maf settings. There is a post on here that says a dealer can do it. I sent the guy a pm but no reply. He says there are two choices when selecting to reflash a lly a square or round filter option. He says to select the round filter and your good to go. Was talking to my GM mechanic and he wants me to find out if you use a tech two or some other scanner. Also how he got by the VIN to do this. He also did say that we should look at the turbo vane sensor as was posted on this thread.

[Jarasic]

Where abouts in Canada are you from? As already mentioned, check for codes and post them when you get a chance.

[mailman]

I live in good old Nova Scotia on the opposite coast from you Jarasic. I have a son who lives in Vancouver. To cold here now to be tinkering with my truck, but I am asking a lot of questions and doing research. Hooked on to my 23 ft. enclosed trailer with two sleds on board, for the first time today. With the tune on level 2, took a 150 klm round trip to dealer and back. Truck seemed to work good on tow mode but I did not push it through the gears. Let it run up to 110 (70) and set the cruise on the big slab, some pretty good long hills. All around it ran good but as I said I did not push it on the stock tranny. Just seems to have this stinking slow spool , boggy action when I try to walk on it when I am cruising.

[hotfeet12]

Im running into about the same prob, after I installed the new mouth peice ran great for a bit then started losing power. I have a edge programer and the MAF went up, wayyy up. My code is PO101(MAF Performance) and while I was checking for that one, ran into two more PO401 and PO404 (EGR stuff) put a blocker plate on a bit ago, do I need a so called finger stick?

[mailman]

Can anyone tell me how to re flash the ECM to change the MAF settings to allow for the extra volume of air due to the AFE Stage 2 cai. and the blade-runner mp. Do you use a tech2 or some other scanner. I was telling my GM mechanic about a post on here on another thread, where the the guy said that any dealer could do it. All you had to do was select the round filter option of the two choices (square or round) but my mechanic said he had to know if you us GM's sps or something else. He said something about model of ECM and how you got by the VIN. Not to sure on all this tech stuff just need to know how people are doing it and he will do the rest.

[OTHRGRL]

Im running into about the same prob, after I installed the new mouth peice ran great for a bit then started losing power. I have a edge programer and the MAF went up, wayyy up. My code is PO101(MAF Performance) and while I was checking for that one, ran into two more PO401 and PO404 (EGR stuff) put a blocker plate on a bit ago, do I need a so called finger stick?

With just a mouthpiece your MAF sensor should still read just fine. The MAF reads air volume based on speed so as long as the diameter of the tubing where the sensor is located isn't changed it should be accurate. If you swap to an LBZ intake the tubing is bigger and the MAF needs reprogammed for it, but MAF readings would go down, not up. You need what is called custom tuning - that way you can account for anything you do to the truck directly in the tuning instead of putting in "finger sticks" everywhere to fool the ECM into not knowing what you've done to the truck. But a finger stick could also prevent the codes.

Can anyone tell me how to re flash the ECM to change the MAF settings to allow for the extra volume of air due to the AFE Stage 2 cai. and the blade-runner mp. Do you use a tech2 or some other scanner. I was telling my GM mechanic about a post on here on another thread, where the the guy said that any dealer could do it. All you had to do was select the round filter option of the two choices (square or round) but my mechanic said he had to know if you us GM's sps or something else. He said something about model of ECM and how you got by the VIN. Not to sure on all this tech stuff just need to know how people are doing it and he will do the rest.

The AFE Stage 2 Warm air intake (that half-ass heat shield isn't keeping it from sucking in hot air from under the hood), if made to fit an LLY, should have properly sized tubing for the MAF sensor to be able to properly read the air flow. Whether the filter and or tubing flow better does not matter - all that matters is that the tube sizing is correct where the sensor is located and the sensor will read the extra air.

Reprogramming for a round filter would be if you put an intake that was made to fit an LBZ on your LLY - then the size of the tubing where the sensor is located would be bigger and the air would be moving slower, making the sensor think it was getting less air than it was.

AFE is also completely full of it about their filter "having too much flow for you truck" - the filter will only flow what gets sucked through it. Without a filter on the truck at all it would run fine, you just wouldn't be protecting your engine and turbo from debris.

The higher your go on PPE tuning the less MAF limiting they have on the fueling - on the higher levels you could unplug the MAF and it wouldn't matter. They also disable a lot of codes. If you want to figure out what is going on put the tuning to stock and drive it and check for codes after a little while.

[mailman]

Thanks for the feed back. Will get my truck back to stock when I get a chance, and will post what I find.